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The shock can be a little difficult to align with the spring perch. If the top of the shock is mounted to the shower tower bracket, it is common to jack up the lower control, which in turn lifts the upper control arm, and allows for the spring perch to move into a better position to install the bottom of the shock. Otherwise, lift the lower control arm with a jack, install the bottom of the shock to the spring perch, then install the shock tower mount cap-piece and connect it to the top of the shock. I have a couple videos surrounding the front suspension between my two white Mustangs, hopefully there's something in there you can watch and see how I did it. :)

Cool, that makes one of us that knows what's going on. :)

Maybe, just maybe, this video wasn't made for you.

Yeah Holley and Edelbrock both stop making carburetors,,,, oh wait. I still see more carb'ed old schools at shows then EFI swaps

Right, because carbs don't need to be adjusted on any other brand of vehicle.

0.68:1 is my 5th gear ratio. The 3.55:1 third member pairs well with giving the car a little more pep down low, but still good RPMs for the highway cruising I need to do to get anywhere. However, if I had to do it over again, I go with 3.70 or 3.89 gearing. I am willing to take a slight hit in highway RPMs for better acceleration down low. I think you need to evaluate how often you'll be at highway speeds compared to slower speeds. If you won't be on the highway for extended periods of time, taking the lower gearing (numerically higher numbers) will probably be more fun to drive. :)

I purchased these from Cobranda, part number SK3. There are only a few places that sell the good ones, Cobranda is one of those places. :)

Funny you should ask, pop back in this Thursday at 4:00pm PST and hopefully you’ll have the answer you are looking for. 😉

@@AndyKruseChannel I am going to buy some popcorn! 🙂

Not sure of how your Alt is wired in your Caprice, but a one-wire would install the same on all vehicles, with the positive lead off the back of the Alt going to the positive battery terminal. :)

@AndyKruseChannel on the back .. the ground and power wire is bolted down together .. and on the top side there's a plug plugged in..

Probably.

Yeah, they didn't give a lot of room on those older vehicles. :)

Long tube allows people to service the heater hose without needing to remove the heater core and/or heater box with all the connections and vent ducting.

Agreed. :)

Nope. :)

@@AndyKruseChannelah bummer. Hello to another Seahawks fan. I just picked up a 66 Coupe! Learned a lot from your channel.

Sorry Boss, I'm not understanding the question.

@@AndyKruseChannel 24 inch rad upgrade what's ur temperature in stop and go traffic on new fastback project

@@elbronco5532 I don't think I've ever seen it get to 200 degrees. :)

Couldn't agree more!

Be careful when cutting your springs. If you have stock upper control arms, cutting a 1/2" of height off the spring will translate into an inch of drop because of the motion ratio of the UCA. Also, clocking the spring to align with the spring perch on the UCA should not be causing you as much trouble as you're experiencing. You might need to reach out to the boys over at VMF and see if they know why your spring is not aligning as expected. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I appreciate it, just got the isolators I’m so I’m going to try over again. it was just difficult to line up I think because the compressor I’m using is one that latches to the top of the tower. I’m gonna be tackling it tomorrow afternoon

@@AndyKruseChannel yeah I just got the isolators so I’m gonna try aligning the springs better, should the end of the spring be almost flush on the inside of the perch tab? Line it up like that?

@@joseespinoza93 The shock can be a little difficult to align with the spring perch. It is common to jack up the lower control, which in turn lifts the upper control arm, and allows for the spring perch to move into a better position to install the bottom of the shock. :)

Yeah, sometimes tracking this stuff down is difficult and frustrating. If it is the original oil pan, or it's not new, the flange could be warped from people over tightening the pans bolts over time. This can be fixed by putting the pan open-side down on the garage floor and tapping the flange with a hammer until it's completely flat on the floor. Good thinking on the gally plug, but the transmission, flywheel, and block plate all need to come off to check that. Hopefully your flywheel bolts have loctite on them, or oil will get passed the threads and look like a rear main seal leak. The weird part is you say it leaks overnight without putting oil in it. It might be time to head over to VMF and ask the boys there if they can pin point the issue. :)

@AndyKruseChannel Thank You Andy! Great ideas! I will put them to work, and see what happens from there, and will let you know in the end what it turned out to be. Thanks again!

You bet!

No problem 👍

When you figure it out, make a video and put it on UA-cam. Someone else is bound to have the same problem, and they'll want to know the answer. :)

Nope, rear shocks don't play a role in ride height with these vehicles. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel pretty much knew I was going to hear that !! 🤣🤣 I’m just hoping to try and raise the back of my Mustang up about a inch and gonna replace the shocks since it’s due

@@Menace510 One easy way to raise the rear is to buy longer shackles. Your shocks may need to be replaced anyways, but taller shackles might give you the look you're after. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks!! I actually did order a set that can lift the back a inch to four! I’m really just trying to cram a 315 in the back and it’s just barely rubbing so that with a good set of double adjustables I’m hoping to lift the rear just a little and control all the movement! How was your overall ride quality?

@@Menace510 Ride quality is decent, but I don't have anything to compare them to. Meaning, prior to these QA1s, I have traditional shocks in all three of my classic mustangs. I wish I would have tried other brands of adjustable shocks to know if these are the cat's meow, or mediocre. Heads up on your 315mm tire plan, unless you've got a Panhard Bar, Watts Link, or 4-Link rear in your car, that axle is going to move from side to side under cornering, and those leaf spring bushings are all that is stopping your tires from completely rubbing on the quarter panels and inner tubs. :)

Nah, installing wiring or plumbing in a spider infested crawl space is brutal, this was easy. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel ugh idk mine fought me tool and nail but that sounds awful too haha

Thanks for the heads up. :)

ok

JBA shorties (1650S) with JBA H-pipe (1650SH) and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers (42541). :)

That's fine, mine is essentially the same thing since the wire from the battery and the wire from the Alt are connected at the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid. :)

You can if you want.

Thanks for watching!

They're Torq Thrust II wheels, just the regular gray color. :)

Thank you! Cheers!

Great to hear, thanks! :)

Thanks for the heads up. :)

Nice, sounds like a good reason to me. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel order # 1852 lol.

@@SolidxGT I'm on it! :)

Thank you! Cheers!

I can follow the logic on the first one, that makes sense. It still doesn't do me any good as the linkage on my truck was damaged and need to be replaced. This was a cheap option. :) But for the second one, doesn't the engine pitch or roll sideways (or about the axis of the driveline) and so the distance from the throttle pedal lever to the throttle linkage on the side of the carb doesn't change enough to cause a throttling issue?

@@AndyKruseChannel I use a modified linkage I got from your store and I can see the tps readout change a few percent from moving the engine side to side. Not enough to notice it driving but maybe a different engine would have a different result. I’m sure they had some reason for all that mess right?

@@flipflopsgarage I'm sure there were several reasons for that old linkage style. But in the end, the cost to replace it to what it was with new parts was more than putting on this linkage. Sometimes the budget wins. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I got rid of mine for safety issues. I couldn’t find usable parts and mine liked to bind up a wot. That’s only fun once.

Thanks! :)

Manual transmission, no kickdown linkage. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel that part,lol.

AAW prefers to sell their products through vendors. The price on the AAW site is the suggested retail price. Vendors normally sell it at the suggested price, but they also offer sales and discounts from time to time. $200 is better than what I paid for it, grab it!! The important thing is making sure it's new (which it is) and the correct part number for the car you have. The 510125 is the correct part number for the 1964-1966 Mustang. :)

Awesome!

Purchase what?

The deformation is only an issue near the end tanks of the core. With the long tubes, they’re back to ‘round’ at the end where the hose and clamp attach. 🙂

If you have a temperature switch already in the block that "closes" when a specific temp is reached, and then "opens" again when the temp goes back down, you can connect terminal 85 to that switch. Some people think their Temperature Sending Unit in the intake manifold (that your temp gauge reads in the instrument cluster) will work in this scenario, but it will not, it's not that kind of device. If you only want to operate your fan(s) with manual switches, you can still use this wiring layout, but 85 goes to one side of your switch and the other side of your switch connects to Ground. This way you can still use a relay because the juice your fan(s) need is usually too much for your manual switch. :)

You probably have a thicker radiator than what I've got. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Oops, sorry. I have a different car. It's a 300E W124. Thanks to it's inline 6 engine, the whole place is cramped on front of the radiator. And even if it's the radiator, can't replace it with a thinner one. Here in Saudi Arabia it gets close to 50C so I cannot afford to. Need that amount of coolant.

The axle seal brand is Centric, part number 417.65014

We learn best from our mistakes. :)

The Export Brace in this video is from CJPony Parts, part number EB4. It's a standard part that you can buy just about any place that sells Mustang parts, they're all generic reproduction units of the original Export Brace. :)

The contact info is in the description below the video.

Yep.

A higher amperage Alternator will help charge the batteries faster, ultimately keeping them at peak charge most of the time. But I'm not sure if that is going to change any hot start issues you may be having. A one-wire Alt will simplify your electrical setup, so it may help with troubleshooting electrical issues. :)

What?